tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-91547502493239871432024-03-08T09:42:46.446-08:00City Escapes Design TipsCity Escapes Nature Photographyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02423973050261121810noreply@blogger.comBlogger8125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9154750249323987143.post-4752310101035857082010-12-15T18:35:00.001-08:002010-12-15T18:35:37.310-08:00Home Photo Framing Basics, Part 4: Putting It All Together<div class=WordSection1><p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:11.0pt;mso-fareast-font-family:Batang;mso-bidi-font-family:Arial'><o:p> </o:p></span></p><p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:11.0pt;mso-fareast-font-family:Batang;mso-bidi-font-family:Arial'>Finally, you are ready to assemble all the parts of your photo and frame.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'> </span>Here are a few hints to help it all go smoothly.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:11.0pt;mso-fareast-font-family:Batang;mso-bidi-font-family:Arial'><o:p> </o:p></span></p><p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:11.0pt;mso-fareast-font-family:Batang;mso-bidi-font-family:Arial'>Though it may seem obvious, it is nonetheless critical to begin with cleaning all of your components.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'> </span>Ensuring that both sides of your glass are clean, for example, will save you the headache of later discovering that the annoying fingerprint in the middle of the image is on the <i style='mso-bidi-font-style:normal'>inside</i> of the frame, and requires disassembling everything to remove.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'> </span>Wiping down your mats and backboards with a dry, lint-free cloth will help to keep distracting flecks off the final image, and don’t forget to wipe off the frame’s rabbet – you might be surprised at how much dust and other particles are lurking about there, just waiting to announce themselves after everything is all sealed up.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'> </span>After cleaning the glass (and anything else that you might use a cleaning agent on), be sure to allow sufficient time for all of the moisture to evaporate from the components.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'> </span>The last thing that you want to do is to trap moisture or fumes inside the frame.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:11.0pt;mso-fareast-font-family:Batang;mso-bidi-font-family:Arial'><o:p> </o:p></span></p><p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:11.0pt'>The next step is to attach the print to its backing board.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'> </span>There are several ways to accomplish this, depending upon the size of your image, its value, and your personal preferences.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'> </span>You can use anything from traditional photo corners to acid-free, double-sided tape.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'> </span>Each method has its advantages and disadvantages.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'> </span>One advantage of photo corners, for example, is that the print can be removed from the backing board with no damage whatsoever; a disadvantage is that the corner might be slightly visible, depending upon your framing choices.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'> </span>If your print is of particular value, it is a good idea to discuss your options with a professional framer before using anything that will stick to the print in any way, such as tapes or other adhesives.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'> </span>It is important that you choose materials that will not cause damage to the print over the long term.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'> </span>(General household glues are not recommended under any circumstances.)<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:11.0pt'><o:p> </o:p></span></p><p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:11.0pt'>If you are using multiple mats, it is a good idea to use double-sided tape to keep them together.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'> </span>This allows them to shift, expand, and contract without losing their spacing in relation to one another.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'> </span>In other words, if you get them properly lined up and taped together, one mat won’t slide over to one side, leaving the bottom mat more exposed on one side than on the other.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'> </span>(There’s nothing quite like having no bottom mat showing on one side, while the other side is extra-wide, to drive this point home.)<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'> </span>Then, for similar reasons, you might want to tape the mats to the backing board, making certain, of course, that your image is properly positioned before securing everything together.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'> </span><o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:11.0pt'><o:p> </o:p></span></p><p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:11.0pt'>Carefully place your clean glass back into the frame, ensuring that the proper side is facing the artwork if using a specialty glass (see Part 3 of this series: Glass).<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'> </span>I find it useful to wear cotton gloves when handling the clean glass, as they prevent me from leaving fingerprints.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'> </span>Lay the mat / print / backing board package on top of the glass.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'> </span>If you are not using a mat, be sure to use a spacer to keep your print away from the glass (see Part 1: The Importance of Breathing Space).<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'> </span>At this point, I find it useful to hold the print package in the frame with my hands and carefully flip the entire piece over to check for any distracting dust flecks that may have snuck onto the image or the mats.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'> </span>There are almost always some there, and it is much better to find and remove them now than after the next step.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'> </span>Repeat this process until the piece is speck-free, or at least as speck-free as you care to get it.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'> </span>Be patient.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'> </span>This can often be the most frustrating phase of framing.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:11.0pt'><o:p> </o:p></span></p><p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:11.0pt'>Securing the print package in the frame can take one of several forms.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'> </span>Many ready-made frames come with glazier points already in the frame.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'> </span>If this is the case, simply bend the points down over the backing board.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'> </span>If your chosen frame does not come with points pre-installed, it is a relatively simple matter to do install them yourself.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'> </span>Glazier points are available in most hardware stores, and they can be installed with either a flathead screwdriver or an inexpensive tool made specifically for this purpose.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'> </span>(Electric glazier point guns are also available, but these are expensive, and might not be worth the money to the home framer with only the occasional framing job to do.) <span style='mso-spacerun:yes'> </span>A word of warning, however: while many woods are very easy to work with, some woods are quite hard (and <i style='mso-bidi-font-style:normal'>all</i> knots are hard).<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'> </span>Glazier points do not go into these woods without difficulty.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'> </span>It is not uncommon to slip with the screwdriver or the glazing tool, which can lead to bruised or scraped knuckles.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'> </span>Perhaps more dangerously, if you use your other hand to push on the frame in order to give you leverage, a slipped tool could result in an impaled hand.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'> </span>Work carefully.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'> </span>Wearing good gloves is never a bad idea during this stage.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:11.0pt'><o:p> </o:p></span></p><p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:11.0pt'>Alternatively, you can use offsets, which are “s” shaped pieces of metal, to hold the print package in place.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'> </span>Offsets are available in several depths, and are also widely available in hardware stores.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'> </span>To use an offset, you first need to drill a pilot hole in the frame to keep the frame from splitting.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'> </span>I suggest doing this part prior to cleaning the frame, as it will introduce wood shavings into the frame.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'> </span>Then secure the offsets over the print package with screws. <span style='mso-spacerun:yes'> </span>Note: be sure that the screws you use are not too long for the depth of your frame.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'> </span>Pay particular attention to the depth of the frame at the point where the screws will be attached; many <span class=SpellE>mouldings</span> have greatly varying depths throughout the <span class=SpellE>moulding</span>.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:11.0pt'><o:p> </o:p></span></p><p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:11.0pt'>If you would like to add a dust covering, now is the time.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'> </span>Simply cut a piece of craft paper to the proper size, and attach it to the back of your frame with double-sided tape.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:11.0pt'><o:p> </o:p></span></p><p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:11.0pt'>Hanging hardware that uses a wire is usually attached about a third of the way down the frame from the top.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'> </span><span class=SpellE>Sawtooth</span> hangers are attached at the top center of the frame.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'> </span>While both are equally effective for smaller frames, wire hangers are a better option for larger frames, and my preference overall, as I find it easier to adjust the positioning of a frame on the wall with a wire.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'> </span>Regardless of the type of hanging hardware that you choose, ensure that it is strong enough to support the framed piece.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'> </span>If you choose a wire, ensure that it is wrapped securely around the “D” rings, and that they are properly screwed into the frame.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'> </span>(Watching a frame fall because the wire unraveled itself does not make for a pleasant day.)<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'> </span>It is not difficult to secure the wire to the “D” rings, but it is critical.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'> </span>If you have questions about how to do so, ask your local framer for a demonstration.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:11.0pt'><o:p> </o:p></span></p><p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:11.0pt'>Adding bumpers to the bottom corners of your framed piece is the finishing touch.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'> </span>These bumpers serve two purposes: first, they protect your wall by keeping the frame away from it, and second, they allow air to circulate behind the frame, which helps to control moisture.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:11.0pt'><o:p> </o:p></span></p><p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:11.0pt'>Voila! You are finished, and are now the proud owner of a beautifully framed piece of art – that you framed yourself.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'> </span>With practice, all of these steps will become second nature, and you will be able to get more and more creative with your framing.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'> </span>Good luck, and have fun!<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'> </span><o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:11.0pt;mso-fareast-font-family:Batang;mso-bidi-font-family:Arial'><o:p> </o:p></span></p><p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:11.0pt;mso-bidi-font-size:12.0pt'>Jodi Gaylord <o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:11.0pt;mso-bidi-font-size:12.0pt'>City Escapes Nature Photography <o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:11.0pt;mso-bidi-font-size:12.0pt'><a href="http://www.cityescapesphotography.com">www.cityescapesphotography.com</a> <o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:11.0pt'><o:p> </o:p></span></p></div>City Escapes Nature Photographyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02423973050261121810noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9154750249323987143.post-27293240005838264912010-11-25T10:51:00.001-08:002010-11-25T10:51:29.115-08:00Home Photo Framing Basics, Part 3: Glass<div class=WordSection1><p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:11.0pt;mso-fareast-font-family:Batang;mso-bidi-font-family:Arial'><o:p> </o:p></span></p><p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:11.0pt;mso-fareast-font-family:Batang;mso-bidi-font-family:Arial'>Photo frame glass is all the same, right?<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'> </span>Wrong!<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'> </span>In the third installment of our series on home photo framing basics, we take a closer look at what is arguably the most taken-for-granted component of a frame: the glass.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:11.0pt;mso-fareast-font-family:Batang;mso-bidi-font-family:Arial'><o:p> </o:p></span></p><p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:11.0pt;mso-fareast-font-family:Batang;mso-bidi-font-family:Arial'>Glass, as a material, is truly fascinating.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'> </span>Though it appears to be a solid, it is actually a liquid; it can block or magnify light; it can be so clear that it is practically invisible, or completely opaque.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'> </span>We acknowledge one of its many dichotomous traits when we speak of things such as a lake being “as smooth as glass,” yet who among us does not know to be careful around glass, lest a broken piece or a rough edge leave us wishing we owned stock in Band-Aid?<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'> </span>For photo framing, however, we need only focus on a few main characteristics of glass: its ability to block ultraviolet light, its reflectivity, and its weight.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:11.0pt;mso-fareast-font-family:Batang;mso-bidi-font-family:Arial'><o:p> </o:p></span></p><p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:11.0pt;mso-fareast-font-family:Batang;mso-bidi-font-family:Arial'>Most, if not all, ready-made frames that include glass use the same type of standard glass.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'> </span>This glass blocks about 45% of UV light and is highly reflective, meaning that glare can be a problem under particular lighting situations.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'> </span>This glass is fine for many applications, but for particularly valuable (whether for monetary or sentimental reasons) prints, the home framer might want to consider upgrading to a higher quality material.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'> </span><o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:11.0pt;mso-fareast-font-family:Batang;mso-bidi-font-family:Arial'><o:p> </o:p></span></p><p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:11.0pt;mso-fareast-font-family:Batang;mso-bidi-font-family:Arial'>The two main types of glass to consider, both available at most framing shops and many glass shops, are museum-grade and conservation-grade.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'> </span>Both block 99% of UV light – a significant improvement over standard glass.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'> </span>By blocking more of the ultraviolet light, these glass types extend the life of your print, both by </span><span style='font-size:11.0pt'>preventing colors from fading, and by helping to prevent degradation of the actual print itself.</span><span style='font-size:11.0pt;mso-fareast-font-family:Batang;mso-bidi-font-family:Arial'> <span style='mso-spacerun:yes'> </span></span><span style='font-size:11.0pt'>The primary difference between the two glass types is how much of the “good” light they allow through to the print.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'> </span>Museum glass is the highest quality framing glass available.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'> </span>It has low reflectivity, which means that glare is significantly reduced, and high light transmission, resulting in the truest color rendition and incredible clarity.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'> </span>We have found that museum glass is especially effective at transmitting deep, dark colors: no other glass will display a richer black, for example.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'> </span>It is also quite useful for works with three or more mats and for shadowboxes, as it retains its clarity of light transmission regardless of how far from the glass the print or keepsake lies.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'> </span>Being the best, of course, comes at a price: museum glass is also the most expensive of all frame glass.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:11.0pt'><o:p> </o:p></span></p><p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:11.0pt'>Conservation glass, meanwhile, while equal to museum glass in UV light blockage, has a slightly lower light transmission rate.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'> </span>This means that colors do not appear quite as true or as rich, though this effect is much less noticeable for lighter colors than for darker ones.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'> </span>Conservation glass is available in two styles: clear and reflection control, and they are how they sound: clear has a standard, glossy finish, while reflection control has a matte-like finish.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'> </span>Both styles are notably less expensive than museum glass.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'> </span>While a significantly higher quality glass, conservation clear will look much like standard framing glass in that light can create flares and reflections under the right conditions.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'> </span>Reflection control glass does just that: glare and reflections are significantly reduced under those same lighting situations.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'> </span>However, depending upon how the reflection control is achieved, the trade-off might be a decrease in clarity and sharpness, especially for prints that have three or more mats and for shadowboxes.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'> </span><o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:11.0pt'><o:p> </o:p></span></p><p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:11.0pt'>Two last factors should be taken into account when considering your glazing needs: the size of your project and how likely it is to suffer damage.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'> </span>We’ll deal with size first.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'> </span>All types of glass are heavy, and for large framed pieces, it is not uncommon for the glass to rival or surpass the weight of the frame itself.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'> </span>This can not only make the display of your piece more challenging, as the heavier the piece, the greater the need for substantial wall support, but it can also make transport more difficult and expensive, and increase the likelihood that the piece will be accidentally dropped.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'> </span>For truly large pieces, professional framers will often use much lighter acrylic in lieu of glass.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'> </span>Most home framers will never frame any piece large enough to require acrylic, but for the exceptionally adventurous types who want to try their hand at large-piece framing, know that acrylic is a much lighter option.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'> </span><o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:11.0pt'><o:p> </o:p></span></p><p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:11.0pt'>Acrylic is not just for large pieces, however; it is also useful for situations where breakage is a major concern, such as in a child’s room or in a high-traffic area.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'> </span>Most acrylics are shatter-resistant, making them safer to use in such situations.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'> </span>(I once saw a beautifully framed, with glass, painting in a cruise ship pub -- a ship that sailed the open ocean, with all of the commensurate rocking and rolling.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'> </span>This beautifully framed -- with glass -- painting was well attached to the wall, so that it would not fall because of the ship’s movements.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'> </span>However, this beautifully framed – WITH GLASS! – <span class=GramE>painting</span> was hung right next to a dart board.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'> </span>It did not survive the first evening.)<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'> </span>Acrylic is also available in conservation and reflection control varieties.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'> </span>Everything has a drawback, of course, and the major drawback of acrylic is that it is much easier to scratch than glass, even during routine cleaning.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'> </span>It seems illogical that a material that is more difficult to break should be easier to scratch, but such is unfortunately the case here.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:11.0pt;mso-fareast-font-family:Batang;mso-bidi-font-family:Arial'><o:p> </o:p></span></p><p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:11.0pt'>So, which glass option is right for your particular framing need?<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'> </span>The most honest, but unfortunately least helpful, answer is that it is largely a matter of personal taste.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'> </span>A few guidelines can help, however.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'> </span>First, consider the value of your print.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'> </span>Is it expensive, irreplaceable, or high in sentimental value?<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'> </span>Then you might want to upgrade to conservation or museum glass.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'> </span>Consider where you will be displaying the piece.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'> </span>Should you consider the extra safety of acrylic?<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'> </span>What is the lighting like there?<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'> </span>Are you likely to have to deal with glare and reflections?<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'> </span>If so, you should consider a reflection control glazing.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'> </span>And finally, what is your budget?<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'> </span>Standard glass, when included in a frame, will cost you nothing extra, while conservation glass requires a slightly larger investment and museum glass has the potential to give you sticker shock.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'> </span>If you find yourself undecided, it is worth a trip to the frame shop to see the visual difference that each type of glass makes.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'> </span>As the saying goes, a picture is worth a thousand words.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'> </span><o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:11.0pt'><o:p> </o:p></span></p><p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:11.0pt'>Jodi<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=MsoNormal><b style='mso-bidi-font-weight:normal'><span style='font-size:14.0pt;font-family:"Monotype Corsiva";mso-bidi-font-family:Arial;color:maroon'><a href="http://www.cityescapesphotography.com/">City Escapes Nature Photography</a> </span></b><b style='mso-bidi-font-weight:normal'><span style='font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Monotype Corsiva"'><o:p></o:p></span></b></p><p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:11.0pt'><o:p> </o:p></span></p></div>City Escapes Nature Photographyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02423973050261121810noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9154750249323987143.post-14719416727557907852010-10-23T13:13:00.001-07:002010-10-23T13:13:27.055-07:00Home Photo Framing Basics, Part 2: Acid-Free Materials<div class=WordSection1> <p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:11.0pt;mso-fareast-font-family:Batang; mso-bidi-font-family:Arial'><o:p> </o:p></span></p> <p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:11.0pt;mso-fareast-font-family:Batang; mso-bidi-font-family:Arial'>In our second installment of our series on home photo framing basics, we look at acid-free materials: what they are, when to use them, and whether the “acid-free” label can be trusted.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'> </span><o:p></o:p></span></p> <p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:11.0pt;mso-fareast-font-family:Batang; mso-bidi-font-family:Arial'><o:p> </o:p></span></p> <p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:11.0pt;mso-fareast-font-family:Batang; mso-bidi-font-family:Arial'>In photo framing, the term “acid-free” is applied to those substances that have a neutral or slightly alkaline <span class=SpellE>pH.</span><span style='mso-spacerun:yes'> </span>This is important for conservation purposes as the acids in framing materials can cause degradation, yellowing, and brittleness of framed photographs.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'> </span>Some acid-free materials are acid-free by nature, while others have had the acids in them neutralized and/or a buffer added.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'> </span>(Buffers create a reserve of alkalinity in the material, which will react with the acids produced to create a neutral pH, delaying the onset of damage to a print from acid-containing materials.)<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'> </span>Anything from mat boards and foam boards to the glue, tape, and even the ink used to sign or label photographs might be labeled “acid-free.”<o:p></o:p></span></p> <p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:11.0pt;mso-fareast-font-family:Batang; mso-bidi-font-family:Arial'><o:p> </o:p></span></p> <p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:11.0pt;mso-fareast-font-family:Batang; mso-bidi-font-family:Arial'>When acid-free materials should be used is, to a certain degree, a matter of personal choice.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'> </span>Certainly a print that has significant monetary value should be framed using only acid-free materials.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'> </span>However, any print that you wish to preserve for many years, whether monetarily valuable or not, should be framed with acid-free materials as well, as these materials can add decades to the life of a print.<o:p></o:p></span></p> <p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:11.0pt;mso-fareast-font-family:Batang; mso-bidi-font-family:Arial'><o:p> </o:p></span></p> <p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:11.0pt;mso-fareast-font-family:Batang; mso-bidi-font-family:Arial'>What causes acidity in the majority of framing materials?<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'> </span>In short, wood.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'> </span>Lignin and other substances found in wood and wood pulp are major culprits in the deterioration of paper products.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'> </span>Newsprint, for example, still has most of the wood’s original lignin, and it is this lignin that is responsible for its rapid yellowing.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'> </span>Because most mat board and the paper coatings of foam board are, like most other papers, made from wood pulp, they too have lignin in them, unless it is first removed from the pulp. <span style='mso-spacerun:yes'> </span>If the acids created by the lignin in a mat come into contact with the photograph, it will, over time, cause what is known as “mat burn,” or the browning of the print from the edges inward, as the acids make their way further into the interior of the photo. <span style='mso-spacerun:yes'> </span>If the mounting board is not acid-free, it will eventually attack the entire photograph, “eating” the print from the back to the front.<o:p></o:p></span></p> <p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:11.0pt;mso-fareast-font-family:Batang; mso-bidi-font-family:Arial'><o:p> </o:p></span></p> <p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:11.0pt;mso-fareast-font-family:Batang; mso-bidi-font-family:Arial'>Before we go any further, I should point out one inalterable rule of photo framing: under no circumstances should corrugated cardboard ever be used in any capacity during the framing process.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'> </span>It is highly acidic, and will do an inordinate amount of damage in a very short time.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'> </span>I have seen it used as mounting boards, as filler boards behind mounting boards, and as spacers between mats to create a shadow effect.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'> </span>Even as a filler board, with a mounting board between it and the print, corrugated cardboard is so acidic that its outgases will penetrate the mounting board and begin to damage the print in a matter of months.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'> </span><o:p></o:p></span></p> <p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:11.0pt;mso-fareast-font-family:Batang; mso-bidi-font-family:Arial'><o:p> </o:p></span></p> <p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:11.0pt;mso-fareast-font-family:Batang; mso-bidi-font-family:Arial'>What should you look for in acid-free materials?<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'> </span>That depends largely on two considerations: how long of a life-expectancy you expect the print to have, and how much money and time you are willing to invest in your framing project. <o:p></o:p></span></p> <p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:11.0pt;mso-fareast-font-family:Batang; mso-bidi-font-family:Arial'><o:p> </o:p></span></p> <p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:11.0pt;mso-fareast-font-family:Batang; mso-bidi-font-family:Arial'>There are varying degrees of “acid-free”.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'> </span>The highest quality materials are made from cotton rag paper.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'> </span>These are innately acid-free, as they are not made from wood pulp at all, but rather, as the name suggests, cotton fibers.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'> </span>Often referred to as museum- or archival-grade, cotton rag is generally the longest-lived of the mat and mount boards, and is available from most framing shops.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'> </span>However, it is not generally pre-cut and off-the-shelf, and it tends to be the most expensive of the boards; it therefore does not fit easily into the home photo framer’s arsenal.<o:p></o:p></span></p> <p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:11.0pt;mso-fareast-font-family:Batang; mso-bidi-font-family:Arial'><o:p> </o:p></span></p> <p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:11.0pt;mso-fareast-font-family:Batang; mso-bidi-font-family:Arial'>Conservation-grade mats and boards are made from traditional wood pulp that has had the pulp acids removed, and the resulting paper is buffered.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'> </span>By some estimates, conservation-grade materials will last well over 100 years before damage begins. <span style='mso-spacerun:yes'> </span>Conservation-grade materials may or may not be available in pre-cut sizes at your local frame shop.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'> </span>(In my experience, non-national chain frame shops, and frame shops that focus mostly on art and framing supplies, have a better selection of pre-cut, conservation-grade materials than national chains and larger craft stores.)<o:p></o:p></span></p> <p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:11.0pt;mso-fareast-font-family:Batang; mso-bidi-font-family:Arial'><o:p> </o:p></span></p> <p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:11.0pt;mso-fareast-font-family:Batang; mso-bidi-font-family:Arial'>Mats and boards simply labeled “acid-free” are generally composed of three layers: an inner core covered on either side by a paper liner.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'> </span>These are the most common pre-cut, acid-free materials at the disposal of the home framer.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'> </span>Many frame shops will have a wide variety of pre-cut sizes and colors available, making them an easy choice for the home framer.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'> </span>However, these products are not as acid-free as the labeling would have you believe.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'> </span>In most cases, it is only the outer paper linings that have been treated to be acid-free; the inner core is made from the same material as non-acid-free boards.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'> </span>These mats and boards will provide some additional protection to your print in the short term, but the acids in the core will eventually reach the print through leaching and out gassing.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'> </span><o:p></o:p></span></p> <p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:11.0pt;mso-fareast-font-family:Batang; mso-bidi-font-family:Arial'><o:p> </o:p></span></p> <p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:11.0pt;mso-fareast-font-family:Batang; mso-bidi-font-family:Arial'>Do these drawbacks mean that these materials should be completely avoided?<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'> </span><span class=GramE>Absolutely not.</span><span style='mso-spacerun:yes'> </span>These are the most readily available and least expensive acid-free mats and boards, and they suit many home framing projects perfectly – especially when you are not inclined to cut your own mats or pay to have a professional cut them for you.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'> </span>Anything of significant sentimental or monetary value should be framed with either conservation- or museum-grade materials, but it is perfectly appropriate to use the easily available, pre-cut, “acid-free” labeled materials on many other prints.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'> </span>It is up to the framer to decide the level of protection appropriate to each individual print.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'> </span>Let’s face it: not every image we want to frame and display needs the red-carpet treatment.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'> </span>If you do use these materials, you can help to extend their useable lifespan by sealing them with an acrylic matte finish, available at most framing and art supply stores.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'> </span>Make sure that you are in a well-ventilated area and spray the mats evenly and completely, especially the bevels and the edges where the core is exposed.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'> </span>The spray will slightly darken the mats’ surface, which is one reason an even coat is so important.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'> </span>Be certain to allow the spray to completely dry before using the mats; you don’t want to introduce any moisture into the interior of the frame.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'> </span>This technique will not give your print the equivalent protection of using conservation- or museum-grade materials, but by sealing the exposed edges of the beveled paper core, it helps to prolong the cleanliness of the frame’s interior environment – and thereby slow the degradation process.<o:p></o:p></span></p> <p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:11.0pt;mso-fareast-font-family:Batang; mso-bidi-font-family:Arial'><o:p> </o:p></span></p> <p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:11.0pt;mso-fareast-font-family:Batang; mso-bidi-font-family:Arial'>In a similar vein, the rabbets of wooden frames should also be sealed, and for the same reasons.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'> </span>Most ready-made frames have the rabbets already sealed through paint or some other finish that coats the wood.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'> </span>Thus, the home framer rarely has to do anything at all to the <span class=SpellE>rabbet</span>.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'> </span>At times, however, the rabbet is raw wood.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'> </span>In these cases, to create an acid-free environment, the rabbet needs to be sealed with either some version of a wood sealant (shellac, paint, etc.), or aluminum frame-sealing tape.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'> </span><o:p></o:p></span></p> <p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:11.0pt;mso-fareast-font-family:Batang; mso-bidi-font-family:Arial'><o:p> </o:p></span></p> <p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:11.0pt;mso-fareast-font-family:Batang; mso-bidi-font-family:Arial'>Of course, to create and maintain an acid-free environment, any adhesives used must also be acid-free.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'> </span>Fortunately, with the rise of scrapbooking, the availability of acid-free (sometimes referred to as “archival”) adhesives has skyrocketed, while their prices have fallen.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'> </span>It is always a good idea to ask your local frame-shop professional about any particular adhesive you are considering, as their qualities vary widely, and each has distinctive pros and cons.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'> </span>Like the acid-free paper products, adhesives have a hierarchy of “acid-freeness”: true museum mounts use Japanese rice paper and rice-starch paste, but they can be challenging to work with and fall far outside the realm of the typical home framer.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'> </span>Linen tapes fall into the conservation-grade level, but they are generally thick and can leave impressions or grooves on the print being mounted.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'> </span>Acid-free paper tape is thinner and therefore leaves no grooves, but it is not strong enough to hold works of substantial weight, including mats.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'> </span>Adhesive sheets can be fantastic, but are not reversible.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'> </span>Mylar photo corners can be employed to safely mount the print, possibly eliminating the need for any adhesive at all, but they cannot be used to hinge mats to mounting boards.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'> </span>(They also come in a much greater range of sizes than most of us realize.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'> </span>They are not limited to the commonly found 1/2 inch-size, but rather are available in sizes all the way up to 3”.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'> </span>For even larger prints, mounting strips are available that can be cut to the desired size.)<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'> </span>Spray adhesives, while useful for many framing projects, are not generally acid-free.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'> </span>Most household tapes and glues are not acid-free either, and/or they will react with the chemicals in photographic paper in ways that can harm the image.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'> </span>They should therefore be avoided.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'> </span>And as Vivian <span class=SpellE>Kistler</span>, an authority on conservation framing techniques, says, when it comes to using duct tape in your framing projects, “Don’t even think about it.”<o:p></o:p></span></p> <p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:11.0pt;mso-fareast-font-family:Batang; mso-bidi-font-family:Arial'><span style='mso-spacerun:yes'> </span><o:p></o:p></span></p> <p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:11.0pt;mso-fareast-font-family:Batang; mso-bidi-font-family:Arial'>Jodi <o:p></o:p></span></p> <p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:11.0pt;mso-fareast-font-family:Batang; mso-bidi-font-family:Arial'><a href="http://www.cityescapesphotography.com/">City Escapes Nature Photography, LLC</a> <o:p></o:p></span></p> <p class=MsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p> </div> City Escapes Nature Photographyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02423973050261121810noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9154750249323987143.post-47821678778765873162010-09-26T18:00:00.001-07:002010-09-26T18:00:36.744-07:00Home Photo Framing Basics, Part 1: The Importance of Breathing Space<div class=WordSection1> <p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:11.0pt;mso-fareast-font-family:Batang; mso-bidi-font-family:Arial'><o:p> </o:p></span></p> <p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:11.0pt;mso-fareast-font-family:Batang; mso-bidi-font-family:Arial'>We begin a four-part series on the fundamentals of home photo framing with this article on allowing the image a little room to breathe.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'> </span>Because most people do not make their own frames or cut their own mats, we will not go into those subjects, but rather will focus on things to consider when using store-bought frames, mats and glazing materials. <o:p></o:p></span></p> <p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:11.0pt;mso-fareast-font-family:Batang; mso-bidi-font-family:Arial'><o:p> </o:p></span></p> <p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:11.0pt;mso-fareast-font-family:Batang; mso-bidi-font-family:Arial;color:black;mso-bidi-font-weight:bold'>A common mistake among do-it-yourself framers -- and a surprising number of “professional” framing shops -- is to put the photo in direct contact with the frame’s glass.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'> </span>Many frames, in fact, especially the smaller-sized frames, are designed such that the photo is <i style='mso-bidi-font-style:normal'>supposed</i> to touch the glass.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'> </span>The backing board that comes with these frames serves to sandwich the image between itself and the glass, keeping the image flat.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'> </span>For photos that have no significant monetary or sentimental value, that can be easily replaced, or that are not expected to have a long life span, this is a fine arrangement.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'> </span>(Let’s be honest -- not all photos need the special care that we will be discussing in this series.)<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'> </span>For photos that do not fall into one of the above categories, however, the first cardinal rule of framing should always be: Do not allow the photo to touch the glass.<o:p></o:p></span></p> <p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:11.0pt;mso-fareast-font-family:Batang; mso-bidi-font-family:Arial;color:black;mso-bidi-font-weight:bold'><o:p> </o:p></span></p> <p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:11.0pt;mso-fareast-font-family:Batang; mso-bidi-font-family:Arial;color:black;mso-bidi-font-weight:bold'>Over time, photos that are in direct contact with glass run the risk of sticking to the glass.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'> </span>Condensation inside the frame will cause the emulsion of the photograph’s paper to glue itself to the glazing material.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'> </span>Often this will begin around the edges or corners of a photo, but if left for long periods of time, the adhesion can become extensive.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'> </span>It is very difficult, if not impossible, to “<span class=SpellE>unstick</span>” the photo from the glass; attempting to do so usually only results in separating the emulsion from the paper itself.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'> </span>This means that the white, underlying paper may come off, but the image will remain stuck to the glass.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'> </span>Even if the photo is left undisturbed and no attempts are made to remove it from the glass, the presentation of the photo is flawed by the adhesion.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'> </span>Furthermore, the glass can never be replaced without significantly damaging the image, or even destroying it completely.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'> </span>Any collector’s value the photo may have had is lost.<o:p></o:p></span></p> <p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:11.0pt;mso-fareast-font-family:Batang; mso-bidi-font-family:Arial;color:black;mso-bidi-font-weight:bold'><o:p> </o:p></span></p> <p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:11.0pt;mso-fareast-font-family:Batang; mso-bidi-font-family:Arial;color:black;mso-bidi-font-weight:bold'>The solution to this annoying problem is quite simple: the photograph should never touch the glazing material.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'> </span>The most common method of achieving this goal is cleverly disguised as a decorative technique: including a mat in the framing package. <span style='mso-spacerun:yes'> </span>In addition to adding depth, color, and endless decorative possibilities, mats ensure that there is air space between the photograph and the glass.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'> </span>They are readily available in a wide variety of colors and sizes, and if you don’t find one that suits your tastes for a particular photograph, any framing shop should be able to custom cut a mat for you.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'> </span>Custom mats can be personalized in an infinite number of ways, and have many more color and material options than off-the-shelf mats.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'> </span>They are also, however, much more expensive.<o:p></o:p></span></p> <p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:11.0pt;mso-fareast-font-family:Batang; mso-bidi-font-family:Arial;color:black;mso-bidi-font-weight:bold'><o:p> </o:p></span></p> <p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:11.0pt;mso-fareast-font-family:Batang; mso-bidi-font-family:Arial;color:black;mso-bidi-font-weight:bold'>Mats are not the only method of achieving this all-important air space.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'> </span>If no mat is desired, a narrow strip of acrylic called a spacer can be used.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'> </span>Spacers are usually about 1/8” square by several feet long and have a strip of adhesive on one side.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'> </span>They are easily cut to desired lengths and come in white, black, and clear.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'> </span>They should be cut to the length of each side of the glass, <span class=GramE>then</span> stuck to the outer edges of the glass using the adhesive side of the spacer.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'> </span>(Note: not the <i style='mso-bidi-font-style:normal'>sides </i>of the glass; the outer edges of the flat part.)<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'> </span>Then simply frame the photograph as usual, ensuring that the spacer is in-between the glass and the photo.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'> </span>I have never found spacers on any store shelves, but again, any framing shop should have them.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'> </span>You just have to ask.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'> </span>Spacers are also inexpensive, usually costing around one dollar each.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'> </span><o:p></o:p></span></p> <p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:11.0pt;mso-fareast-font-family:Batang; mso-bidi-font-family:Arial;color:black;mso-bidi-font-weight:bold'><o:p> </o:p></span></p> <p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:11.0pt;mso-fareast-font-family:Batang; mso-bidi-font-family:Arial;color:black;mso-bidi-font-weight:bold'>A word of caution: if you decide to have a photograph or any other work of art framed professionally, and you choose not to use a mat, <b>do not assume that the frame shop will use a spacer</b>.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'> </span>Often they will not unless the customer specifically requests one.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'> </span>A woman I know, who did not know about spacers and therefore did not know to ask for them, spent several hundred dollars at a popular, national-chain framing shop to get a photograph of significant sentimental value framed without a mat.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'> </span>She trusted the framers to do what was necessary to properly frame her cherished photograph.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'> </span>I was with her when she picked up the finished package, and was astonished to see that the photograph was simply pressed against the glass.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'> </span>Especially given how much she paid for a professional framer, this was simply unacceptable.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'> </span>I refused to allow her to accept the package as it was, and insisted that a spacer be added.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'> </span>It took the frame shop no more than ten minutes to make the correction, and added five dollars in parts and labor to the price tag – well worth the many extra years of enjoyment that the woman could now expect to get out of her photograph.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'> </span>Bottom line: if someone else is framing your art behind glass for you, it is essential that you specifically request spacers if no mats will be used.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'> </span><o:p></o:p></span></p> <p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:11.0pt;mso-bidi-font-size:12.0pt; color:maroon'><o:p> </o:p></span></p> <p class=MsoNormal align=center style='text-align:center'><span style='font-size:11.0pt;mso-bidi-font-size:12.0pt;color:maroon'><o:p> </o:p></span></p> <p class=MsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p> </div> City Escapes Nature Photographyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02423973050261121810noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9154750249323987143.post-46108199330344631962010-03-29T09:54:00.001-07:002010-06-06T14:26:21.730-07:00Grouping Multiple Pieces of Art on a Wall<div class="Section1"><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt;font-size:12;" >Whether you are grouping photographs or paintings, creating an array of art on a single wall can have a big visual impact. Wall groupings can be used to create an atmosphere, to accent a particular feature of a room, or to simply keep a room from looking empty. Whatever your goal for a particular space, keeping a few guidelines in mind will help you achieve your goal with minimal frustration.<?xml:namespace prefix = o /><o:p></o:p></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt;font-size:12;" ><o:p> </o:p></span></p><p style="TEXT-INDENT: -0.25in; MARGIN-LEFT: 0.5in; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; tab-stops: list .5in" class="MsoNormal"><span style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; mso-bidi-: Batangfont-family:Batang;font-size:12;" ><span style="mso-list: Ignore">1)<span style="FONT: 7pt 'Times New Roman'"> </span></span></span><span style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt;font-size:12;" >Small images can be given more visual impact by grouping them together. This gives the images more of a visual presence, drawing the eye to them more than a single small image alone generally does. Especially if the images are of the same shape and size, they can be hung in a tight group (2” or less apart), creating the visual sensation that each is a portion of a whole.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt;font-size:12;" ><o:p> </o:p></span></p><p style="TEXT-INDENT: -0.25in; MARGIN-LEFT: 0.5in; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; tab-stops: list .5in" class="MsoNormal"><span style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; mso-bidi-: Batangfont-family:Batang;font-size:12;" ><span style="mso-list: Ignore">2)<span style="FONT: 7pt 'Times New Roman'"> </span></span></span><span style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt;font-size:12;" >When mixing large and small pictures, use the larger pieces as your anchors; put them in the middle and/or bottom to prevent your arrangement from seeming top-heavy and unstable. A common exception to this rule is when you are including a panoramic. These are often put at the top of an arrangement, acting as a visual “lid.”<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt;font-size:12;" ><o:p> </o:p></span></p><p style="TEXT-INDENT: -0.25in; MARGIN-LEFT: 0.5in; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; tab-stops: list .5in" class="MsoNormal"><span style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; mso-bidi-: Batangfont-family:Batang;font-size:12;" ><span style="mso-list: Ignore">3)<span style="FONT: 7pt 'Times New Roman'"> </span></span></span><span style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt;font-size:12;" >Combine vertical and horizontal images together in one grouping. This adds visual punch, and helps to keep the arrangement from looking stale.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt;font-size:12;" ><o:p> </o:p></span></p><p style="TEXT-INDENT: -0.25in; MARGIN-LEFT: 0.5in; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; tab-stops: list .5in" class="MsoNormal"><span style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; mso-bidi-: Batangfont-family:Batang;font-size:12;" ><span style="mso-list: Ignore">4)<span style="FONT: 7pt 'Times New Roman'"> </span></span></span><span style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt;font-size:12;" >Pictures do not have to line up neatly! They should be evenly spaced, but play with varying their heights and horizontal alignments. Arcing pieces, starting with the largest at the bottom (imagine the stereotypical depiction of a shooting star, including its tail), can do a magnificent job of leading the eye and creating a sensation of movement in a room. The overall symmetry should be balanced, but that does not mean that the two sides of an arrangement need to be mirror images. Multiple small pictures can provide the same visual weight as a single large picture. <o:p></o:p></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt;font-size:12;" ><o:p> </o:p></span></p><p style="TEXT-INDENT: -0.25in; MARGIN-LEFT: 0.5in; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; tab-stops: list .5in" class="MsoNormal"><span style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; mso-bidi-: Batangfont-family:Batang;font-size:12;" ><span style="mso-list: Ignore">5)<span style="FONT: 7pt 'Times New Roman'"> </span></span></span><span style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt;font-size:12;" >Images in a group should have one or more unifying elements.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes"> </span>This can be things such as subject matter (family, African wildlife, French bistros, etc), all color or all black and white, matching frames or frame colors, or even just matching mats. There should be at least one <span class="GramE">common</span> thread running through all of the finished pieces to create a sense of cohesion. Note that images do not need to be framed identically in order to create a successful grouping. My first rule of thumb in framing any image is to ensure that the frame and mats complement the image. If any particular framing job looks great in the room but does not suit the image, either the frame should be changed, or a new image should be found that works well with the frame. Remember, the <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal">image</i> is the art; the frame, though very important, is secondary (unless the object being framed is a mirror; in this case, the frame can, but does not have to, serve as the main portion of art.). That having been said, if the images are similar, framing them identically can accentuate the unifying elements of them. For example, a series of three shots of your child diving off of a diving board tell a story, and framing them identically can accentuate that narration while complementing each picture in its own right.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt;font-size:12;" ><o:p> </o:p></span></p><p style="TEXT-INDENT: -0.25in; MARGIN-LEFT: 0.5in; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; tab-stops: list .5in" class="MsoNormal"><span style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; mso-bidi-: Batangfont-family:Batang;font-size:12;" ><span style="mso-list: Ignore">6)<span style="FONT: 7pt 'Times New Roman'"> </span></span></span><span style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt;font-size:12;" >Tell stories with your groupings. Creating visual narrations draws the viewer in and keeps them interested.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt;font-size:12;" ><o:p> </o:p></span></p><p style="TEXT-INDENT: -0.25in; MARGIN-LEFT: 0.5in; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; tab-stops: list .5in" class="MsoNormal"><span style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; mso-bidi-: Batangfont-family:Batang;font-size:12;" ><span style="mso-list: Ignore">7)<span style="FONT: 7pt 'Times New Roman'"> </span></span></span><span style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt;font-size:12;" >If you are aiming to create an intimate, welcoming atmosphere, you should consider placing furniture -- especially chairs, sofas, and other items that invite spending time in the direct vicinity of the artwork -- either directly under or near the art. This invites the viewer to come in close and allows the art to become a part of their surroundings, even if only as a background piece. If, however, you aim to have the art be the uncontested focal point of the room, ensure that no furniture is near it, and that the view of the piece is not obstructed. This draws the eye and holds it, but also creates a little distance between the viewer and the art. The piece will command the viewers’ attention, but will not necessarily allow them to get cozy enough with it to allow it to fade into the background.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt;font-size:12;" ><o:p> </o:p></span></p><p style="TEXT-INDENT: -0.25in; MARGIN-LEFT: 0.5in; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; tab-stops: list .5in" class="MsoNormal"><span style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; mso-bidi-: Batangfont-family:Batang;font-size:12;" ><span style="mso-list: Ignore">8)<span style="FONT: 7pt 'Times New Roman'"> </span></span></span><span style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt;font-size:12;" >Be cautious about mixing photographs and other artwork, such as paintings or charcoals. Though it is possible for them to coincide peacefully, most of the time they will compete with each other for the viewer’s attention.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt;font-size:12;" ><o:p> </o:p></span></p><p style="TEXT-INDENT: -0.25in; MARGIN-LEFT: 0.5in; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; tab-stops: list .5in" class="MsoNormal"><span style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; mso-bidi-: Batangfont-family:Batang;font-size:12;" ><span style="mso-list: Ignore">9)<span style="FONT: 7pt 'Times New Roman'"> </span></span></span><span style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt;font-size:12;" >Lastly, remember that like all decorating guidelines, these are simply guidelines. Play. Experiment. You may find that breaking one or all of these “rules” will give you exactly the look you desire. Just remember to use paper templates taped to your walls first, as discussed last month, so you don’t end up with dozens of unnecessary holes in your walls.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt;font-size:12;" ><o:p> </o:p></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt;font-size:12;" ><o:p> </o:p></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt;font-size:12;color:maroon;" >Jodi<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt;font-size:12;color:maroon;" >City Escapes Nature Photography<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt;font-size:12;color:maroon;" ><a href="http://www.cityescapesphotography.com/">http://www.cityescapesphotography.com</a><o:p></o:p></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt;font-size:12;color:maroon;" ><o:p> </o:p></span></p></div>City Escapes Nature Photographyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02423973050261121810noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9154750249323987143.post-9916799449827953152010-02-20T11:58:00.001-08:002010-02-20T11:58:04.463-08:00Choosing the Proper-Sized Photograph for a Given Wall<div class=Section1> <p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:11.0pt;mso-bidi-font-size:12.0pt'><o:p> </o:p></span></p> <p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:11.0pt;mso-bidi-font-size:12.0pt'>You have found THE photograph that you want, and you know just where you want to hang it.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'> </span>The only decision left to make is how large to print it.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'> </span>This can be a surprisingly frustrating question to answer.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'> </span>So, as you are pondering it, here are a few things to consider.<o:p></o:p></span></p> <p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:11.0pt;mso-bidi-font-size:12.0pt'><o:p> </o:p></span></p> <p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:11.0pt;mso-bidi-font-size:12.0pt'>First of all, note how much space you have overall in the area where you want to hang the print.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'> </span>While it is obvious that a larger picture will take up more wall space, it also requires a greater viewing distance.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'> </span>For example, hanging a large picture in a hallway may not give the viewer adequate room to step back and take in the entire image, though it may be fine for examining the details of the work.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'> </span>However, hanging the image at the <i style='mso-bidi-font-style:normal'>end</i> of a long hallway just might provide enough space.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'> </span><o:p></o:p></span></p> <p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:11.0pt;mso-bidi-font-size:12.0pt'><o:p> </o:p></span></p> <p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:11.0pt;mso-bidi-font-size:12.0pt'>Also, larger prints tend to be focal points, drawing the viewer’s attention to themselves and things around them.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'> </span>Is where you want to hang the image the focal point of that space, or will the print be competing with something else?<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'> </span>This is one of the reasons you will often see larger prints hung over mantels; the print and the fireplace work together to provide a distinctive focal point to the room.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'> </span>Remember also that smaller pictures grouped together perform the same function, and should be considered a single unit for decorating purposes.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'> </span>(More on multiple smaller prints grouped together will be in next month’s design blog.)<o:p></o:p></span></p> <p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:11.0pt;mso-bidi-font-size:12.0pt'><o:p> </o:p></span></p> <p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:11.0pt;mso-bidi-font-size:12.0pt'>Large prints can crowd small <span class=GramE>spaces,</span> while conversely, a too small print can be lost in a large space.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'> </span>Also consider the orientation of the photograph to understand how it will affect the look of the wall.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'> </span>Vertical images emphasize height in a room, while horizontal images emphasize width.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'> </span>This may seem an <span class=GramE>obvious</span> concept, but the actual visualization of the effect can sometimes be a bit more challenging.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'> </span><o:p></o:p></span></p> <p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:11.0pt;mso-bidi-font-size:12.0pt'><o:p> </o:p></span></p> <p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:11.0pt;mso-bidi-font-size:12.0pt'>Prints should not crowd furniture.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'> </span>As a general rule, they should be no more than 2/3 – 3/4 the width of the furniture below them, and the bottom edge of the frame should sit at least 6 – 8 inches above the furniture.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'> </span>Prints should <i style='mso-bidi-font-style:normal'>generally</i> be hung at eye level for the average person.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'> </span>However, larger prints on higher walls might need to be hung higher to maintain a sense of balance.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'> </span><o:p></o:p></span></p> <p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:11.0pt;mso-bidi-font-size:12.0pt'><o:p> </o:p></span></p> <p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:11.0pt;mso-bidi-font-size:12.0pt'>Consider the lighting in the area you wish to hang the image.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'> </span>Can you light the image properly at a given size?<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'> </span>If not, are you willing to add lighting?<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'> </span>This could be something as simple as a frame light or a free-standing lamp, or as elaborate as installing track lighting.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'> </span>Just as lighting is critical in the proper creation of a stunning photograph, it is also essential in its proper display. <o:p></o:p></span></p> <p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:11.0pt;mso-bidi-font-size:12.0pt'><o:p> </o:p></span></p> <p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:11.0pt;mso-bidi-font-size:12.0pt'>While many people will consider the ramifications upon art size of having small children in the home (Can they reach it?<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'> </span>Will you come home to find your beautiful wedding portrait covered in small chocolate hand prints, or worse, in pieces on the ground, with an injured child nearby?), an often overlooked consideration is whether or not you have pets, especially medium to large dogs with appropriately long tails.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'> </span>Though most pet owners who fall into this category quickly become aware of the “clean-sweeping” potential of these tails, and modify the items stored on top of coffee and side tables accordingly, art hung on walls is sometimes overlooked as a potential victim of the excited swooshes of a wagging tail.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'> </span>The larger the piece, the more wall it covers, and the lower the bottom of the frame will be to the floor, making it more susceptible to getting knocked off the wall or to getting pieces of fur caught in the frame.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'> </span><o:p></o:p></span></p> <p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:11.0pt;mso-bidi-font-size:12.0pt'><o:p> </o:p></span></p> <p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:11.0pt;mso-bidi-font-size:12.0pt'>With all of these things in mind, perhaps the single best thing you can do to help decide how big to make your print is to cut out a paper template in your preferred size and actually attach it to your wall (painter’s tape works well because of its easy-release adhesive).<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'> </span>Be sure to include the dimensions of the entire package, including mats and frame, as these can substantially increase the overall dimensions of the piece.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'> </span>Leave the template in place for a few days to get a feel for how the size works on a day-to-day basis.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'> </span>Make adjustments as necessary.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'> </span>And remember, when it comes to decorating, there are no hard and fast rules, only suggestions.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'> </span>What matters most is what looks and feels right to you.<o:p></o:p></span></p> <p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:11.0pt;mso-bidi-font-size:12.0pt'><o:p> </o:p></span></p> <p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:11.0pt;mso-bidi-font-size:12.0pt'>Happy decorating!<o:p></o:p></span></p> <p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:11.0pt;mso-bidi-font-size:12.0pt'><o:p> </o:p></span></p> <p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:11.0pt;mso-bidi-font-size:12.0pt'>Jodi Gaylord <o:p></o:p></span></p> <p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:11.0pt;mso-bidi-font-size:12.0pt'>City Escapes Nature Photography <o:p></o:p></span></p> <p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:11.0pt;mso-bidi-font-size:12.0pt'><a href="http://www.cityescapesphotography.com">www.cityescapesphotography.com</a> <o:p></o:p></span></p> <p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:11.0pt;mso-bidi-font-size:12.0pt'><o:p> </o:p></span></p> </div> City Escapes Nature Photographyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02423973050261121810noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9154750249323987143.post-70668083536659687112009-06-02T15:46:00.000-07:002010-06-05T15:47:30.997-07:00Which is preferable, framed canvas prints or Gallery Wraps?That is by and large a matter of personal preference. Frames do add a degree of structural support and protection for the canvas, especially on the larger sizes, but they certainly are not required for the successful display of your canvas. A framed canvas works well with many different decors, from rustic to homey to sophisticated, to everything in between. Frames highlight the art within, and when done properly, complement the image by defining and delineating its space, accenting its color scheme, and generally giving the image a “finished” feeling. Framed images also seem “normal” to our eyes – we are accustomed to seeing prints in frames. <br /><br />Gallery wraps tend to work best in decors that lean toward the modern. They are clean and minimalist, having no defining border around the front of the image. Their simplicity is their genius; there is nothing but the image to draw the viewer’s eye. Of course, this lack of a defining border leaves the viewer open to distraction from whatever may be in close proximity to the gallery wrap. For this reason, gallery wraps are especially effective in areas where the wrap has a bit of empty space around it, allowing the wall itself to lend significance to the image.<br /><br />When considering a gallery wrap, it should be remembered that they, like all of our canvas prints, have a bit of thickness to them, and are not flat like a paper print. Though the finished piece will not have the depth of a traditional photo frame, all of our canvas prints are stretched on wooden stretcher frames. Gallery wraps, therefore, are still about an inch thick. The sides of the wrap will be black, white, or a continuation of the image itself, as determined on a case-by-case basis by what works best with each individual image.City Escapes Nature Photographyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02423973050261121810noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9154750249323987143.post-71119726204027493962009-06-01T14:44:00.000-07:002010-06-05T14:46:33.171-07:00Why should I consider canvas prints?We find that canvas adds a beautiful texture and a classic feel to our images. The very slight roughness of the canvas surface lends a certain three-dimensionality to the images, emphasizing textures and depth. Additionally, many clients and visitors to our shows tell us that canvas evokes the impression of a painting; indeed, several viewers have actually mistakenly confused some of our canvas-printed photographs for paintings. <br /><br />Additionally, no glass is used to frame a canvas print. Being glass-free has several advantages:<br /><ul><br /><li> the necessity for glare control is eliminated.<br /><li>the piece is lighter in weight than an identically-sized, framed paper print, and is therefore able to be hung in places where a heavy frame might be too much for the supporting structures. <br /><li>no glass means no irritating streaks on glass that are difficult to remove.<br /><li>shipping is safer, as there is no glass to break if the box gets dropped or mishandled. While severe mishandling could still break the frame, broken glass creates the possibility of damaging the print underneath, or more importantly, the person opening the box. No glass means no glass shards.<br /></ul>City Escapes Nature Photographyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02423973050261121810noreply@blogger.com0